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- Information about this article
- Introduction
- Nishine Shrine and Takahata Tenmangu: A Sacred Site Where Two Faiths Coexist
- The Bullfinch (Uso) and the Lie (Uso): The Art of Turning Misfortune into Luck
- The History of the Usokae Festival and Its Nationwide Reach
- Experience the Festival: The Ritual and Joy of Receiving the Wooden Bullfinch
- Iizaka Onsen and Nishine Shrine: A Faith Deeply Rooted in the Community
- Conclusion
Information about this article
1. About the Usokae Festival
The Usokae Festival is a traditional Shinto ritual held annually at Takahata Tenmangu Shrine, located within the grounds of Nishine Shrine in Iizaka Town, Fukushima City. The festival is centered on the belief of turning a year’s misfortune and bad luck into “lies” (uso) and replacing them with good fortune. Participants receive a wooden carving of a bullfinch bird, known as an “Usodori,” as a symbolic act of transforming adversity into positive outcomes.
2. Origins, Meaning, and Historical Background
The Usokae Festival originates from a legend in which worshippers at Takahata Tenmangu Shrine were once attacked by a swarm of bees and were saved by a bird called the bullfinch (uso). This story led to a wordplay connection between “uso” meaning both “bullfinch” and “lie” in Japanese, giving rise to the tradition of symbolically turning negative events from the past year into “lies” and wishing for a better year ahead.
3. Cultural Appeal and the Experience for Visitors
The festival centers on the ritual of receiving and exchanging wooden bullfinch carvings, drawing long lines of worshippers each year. Visitors pray for protection from misfortune, academic success, and success in entrance examinations, making the event especially popular among students and families. For local residents, the Usokae Festival is cherished as a beloved winter tradition and seasonal highlight.
Introduction
In the heart of Iizaka, Fukushima—a historic hot spring town celebrated as one of the three great springs of the Oshu region—there is a sacred place that becomes enveloped in a unique blend of solemn silence and communal fervor as winter arrives. This is Takahata Tenmangu, a shrine nestled within the grounds of the larger Nishine Shrine. Every January, it hosts the “Usokae Festival” (the Bullfinch Exchange Festival), a ritual that stands out among the many Tenmangu shrine ceremonies across Japan for its singular character and deep spiritual resonance.
What makes this festival so extraordinary is its rarity; the Usokae ritual is a precious cultural tradition preserved nowhere else in the Tohoku or Hokkaido regions except here at Takahata Tenmangu.
During the festival, visitors receive a wooden amulet carved in the shape of a bullfinch, known as a uso. The ritual centers on a powerful symbolic exchange: one offers up all the misfortunes and calamities of the past year to the deity, treating them as a “lie” (uso in Japanese). By exchanging the old bird for a new one—which serves as a divine scapegoat—participants pray for the coming year to be transformed into one of good fortune.
This symbolic rite encapsulates a resilient and profound piece of Japanese wisdom cherished since ancient times: the ability to turn misfortune into a blessing. Transcending the boundaries of a simple traditional event, the Usokae Festival offers a way for people living in the modern world to reset their spirits and take a courageous step forward. Let us take a deeper look into the history and heritage of this fascinating ritual.
Nishine Shrine and Takahata Tenmangu: A Sacred Site Where Two Faiths Coexist
Located in Iizaka, Fukushima City—the stage for the “Usokae Festival“—this sacred site features a somewhat unique layout: the Takahata Tenmangu shrine is enshrined within the larger grounds of Nishine Shrine. The coexistence of these two distinct spiritual landmarks is deeply rooted in a story interwoven with the region’s history.
The foundation, Nishine Shrine, was established in the early Edo period to deify two great figures who dedicated their lives to the area’s flood control and irrigation. These men were Furukawa Zenbei Shigeyoshi, a magistrate of the Date Clan, and Sato Shin’uemon Tamenobu, a local civil engineer.
At that time, the area was a barren wasteland plagued by severe water shortages. Investing their own personal wealth and persevering through grueling, difficult construction, the two men eventually completed the “Nishine-zeki” irrigation canal. This feat transformed the vast, arid land into fertile rice fields and dramatically improved the lives of the local people. In honor of their virtue and out of deep gratitude, the community founded Nishine Shrine. Since then, it has been revered as a sanctuary for the “deities of pioneering and abundance,” protecting the very foundations of local life.
Standing alongside it within the same precinct is Takahata Tenmangu, which enshrines Sugawara no Michizane, the renowned deity of scholarship. The name “Takahata” has long been associated with this land, and the shrine’s origins can be traced back to an ancient celestial sanctuary that once stood here. While most “Tenmangu” shrines are primarily associated with academic success and passing exams, Takahata Tenmangu is also famous for its exceptionally powerful influence in “warding off misfortune.”
If Nishine Shrine serves as the guardian of “regional prosperity and the community’s foundation,” then Takahata Tenmangu can be seen as the deity who “dispels individual bad luck and invites good fortune.” Because these two faiths coexist in one location, visitors can offer multi-layered prayers—praying for the peace of the region while simultaneously seeking to turn their personal calamities into a “lie.”
During the Usokae Festival in particular, the quiet forest of Nishine Shrine is filled with the fervor of many visitors praying for better luck. Reflecting both the harsh winter cold of Iizaka and the warm hospitality of its hot springs, these two shrines continue to be cherished today as essential pillars of support for the people’s hearts and minds.
The Bullfinch (Uso) and the Lie (Uso): The Art of Turning Misfortune into Luck
The central figure of the “Usokae Festival” is a bird called the Uso (the Japanese Bullfinch), a real-life species belonging to the finch family. With vibrant crimson feathers stretching from its neck to its cheeks, it looks as though it is either blushing or dressed in a beautiful kimono. This charming appearance has made it a beloved bird in Japan since ancient times. But why did this small bird come to play such a vital role in the rituals of Tenmangu shrines?
The answer lies in a dramatic legend passed down through generations at Takahata Tenmangu. Long ago, a massive swarm of giant bees suddenly attacked a group of people visiting the shrine. Just as the fleeing worshipers faced a desperate, life-threatening situation, a countless flock of bullfinches flew in from nowhere. It is said that the birds devoured every single bee, miraculously saving the people from disaster.
Ever since this mystical event, the bullfinch has been revered as a “messenger of the deity” and a “guardian bird that prevents calamity and rescues the people.” The reason the Usokae ritual at Takahata Tenmangu has taken such deep root—far beyond a simple annual event—is that this legend of the bees remains etched in the hearts of the community.
Furthermore, what makes this ritual even more profound is the wisdom hidden within the “phonetics” of the Japanese language. Because the name of the bird (uso) sounds exactly like the Japanese word for “a lie” (uso), the common people of the Edo period infused the ritual with a bit of “iki” (a refined, stylish wit).
The philosophy is this: “Take all the misfortunes and sad events of the past year and turn them into a ‘lie’ before the deity. Then, exchange your old bird for a new one so that the lie may be transformed into ‘truth’—a genuine new year of good luck.”
By linguistically converting the “bird” into a “lie,” people are able to let go of past attachments and regrets, allowing themselves to be reborn. This is a spiritual culture unique to Japan, one that transcends purely logical thinking. The power of this positive “wordplay”—literally turning a lie into a blessing—is one of the reasons the Usokae Festival has been cherished for so long and continues to resonate with us today.
The History of the Usokae Festival and Its Nationwide Reach
The “Usokae” (Bullfinch Exchange) ritual is not unique to Takahata Tenmangu in Iizaka; it is observed at Tenmangu shrines throughout Japan. Tracing its origins leads us back to the deep connection between the deity Sugawara no Michizane and the Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Kyushu.
Beyond the legend of the bees mentioned earlier, there are several theories as to why the bullfinch became associated with Tenjin (the deified Michizane). One story tells of a bullfinch protecting Michizane from assassins during his exile to Dazaifu. Another tells of the birds eating harmful insects that plagued the plum trees he so dearly loved. In every version, the bullfinch is viewed as a “bird of good omen.”
Historically, the Usokae ritual began at Dazaifu Tenmangu during the Edo period. Back then, it was a lively “exchange event” where worshippers would trade wooden bullfinches while calling out, “Let’s exchange! Let’s exchange!” It was said that the person who ended up with the golden bullfinch held by the chief priest would receive the greatest luck. This custom eventually reached Edo (modern-day Tokyo) and spread across the country through shrines like Kameido Tenjin.
However, what is truly remarkable is how rare this ritual is in the northern regions of Japan. In fact, Takahata Tenmangu is known as the only place in the entire Tohoku and Hokkaido regions that has continuously preserved the Usokae tradition.
Why did it survive in Iizaka specifically? The answer lies in the resilience of the Fukushima people and the collective memory of the land. In the past, when the local sericulture (silk farming) industry was thriving, people felt a desperate need for “protection against calamity”—whether to guard silkworm cocoons from rodents or to protect families from plagues. The story of the bullfinch saving people from bees was more than just a legend; it served as a “shield for the heart,” helping the community survive harsh nature and social hardships.
Furthermore, Iizaka has flourished since ancient times as a post station and hot spring town, serving as a cultural crossroads for many travelers. It is said that the custom of Usokae, brought from afar, merged with Iizaka’s rich hot spring culture, evolving uniquely while being carefully protected until it became the one-of-a-kind presence it is today.
Today, due to this historical value and rarity, many people from both inside and outside the prefecture travel here seeking the “only Usokae in Tohoku.” The flame of history that began in Dazaifu now burns brightest here in Iizaka, serving as a beacon of hope that illuminates the winters of northeastern Japan.
Experience the Festival: The Ritual and Joy of Receiving the Wooden Bullfinch
On the days of the “Usokae Festival” held every January, the town of Iizaka is filled with a unique, vibrant energy. The primary focus of this sacred event, and what visitors look forward to most, is obtaining a Uso-dori (wooden bullfinch)—a special talisman unique to Takahata Tenmangu.
The bullfinches of Takahata Tenmangu are characterized by their simple yet powerful design, each one meticulously hand-carved by artisans from a single piece of wood. The technique known as Makiba, where a sharp blade is used to shave the wood into thin, curled layers to represent feathers from a cylindrical block, is a true masterpiece of traditional craftsmanship. With bright crimson applied to its head and an expression that gazes straight ahead, the bird looks somewhat humorous yet possesses a dignified aura capable of warding off evil spirits.
These bullfinches are available in various sizes, ranging from tiny miniatures to larger ones that fit in the palm of your hand. Worshipers begin the ritual by returning their old bullfinch (the one received the previous year) to the shrine’s designated collection point with a sense of gratitude. They offer a prayer, saying, “Thank you for acting as my substitute and taking upon yourself the misfortunes of this past year,” before receiving a brand-new bullfinch.
The mindset here is not simply “buying” an item, but rather “receiving” a divine gift from the deity. This process—entrusting one’s bad luck to the bird and returning home with fresh hope—serves to purify the hearts of the visitors. In recent years, an increasing number of young people have been drawn to the bird’s charming appearance, purchasing them as gifts for students or as interior decor. However, the underlying motivation remains a sincere desire to “exchange misfortune for good luck.”
During the festival, special booths are set up on the shrine grounds, and long lines form early in the morning. The sight of people waiting their turn, their white breath visible in the crisp winter air, is a classic seasonal scene in Iizaka. Seeing people leave for home, cradling their newly received bullfinches close to their chests with bright, refreshed faces, one can truly feel how much this little bird serves as a pillar of emotional support.
Additionally, Takahata Tenmangu often issues special Goshuin (temple/shrine stamps) during this period, which are highly popular as mementos of the visit. The colorful banners fluttering in the wind and the dignified presence of the historic shrine buildings all come together to create the extraordinary atmosphere of the Usokae Festival. When you hold one of these handcrafted bullfinches, you cannot help but feel a warm, invisible sense of protection that goes far beyond a simple wooden carving.
Iizaka Onsen and Nishine Shrine: A Faith Deeply Rooted in the Community
The reason the Usokae Festival has been preserved so passionately for so long lies in the close relationship between the Nishine Shrine/Takahata Tenmangu complex and Iizaka Onsen—one of the premier hot spring destinations in northeastern Japan.
Revered since ancient times as the guardians of “Oku-Iizaka” (the inner reaches of the town), these shrines have always been an essential stop for tourists and visitors seeking the healing waters of the hot springs. January, when the festival takes place, is the coldest time of year in Iizaka. In the heart of Fukushima’s snowy winter, a classic routine emerged for visitors: warming their bodies in the steaming hot springs to stave off the biting cold, then visiting the shrine to transform the year’s misfortunes into a “lie.” This sequence—purifying both body and soul—has become a cherished tradition for those visiting Iizaka.
Additionally, as is widely known in Japan, Sugawara no Michizane of Takahata Tenmangu is the “Deity of Scholarship.” The timing of the Usokae Festival coincides perfectly with Japan’s intense entrance exam season. Consequently, the shrine grounds are filled not only with general worshippers but also with students and their families praying for success in upcoming university and high school trials.
“Let my poor mock-exam results and anxieties be a ‘lie,’ so that I may show my ‘true’ strength in the real exam.”
For students who purchase a bullfinch with such earnest prayers, this small wooden bird becomes an incredibly reassuring guardian.
Furthermore, the history of the “Nishine-zeki” irrigation canal—the pioneering legacy of Nishine Shrine itself—lives on as a source of local pride. The “pioneering spirit” of the ancestors, who overcame hardship to transform a barren land into a fertile one, resonates perfectly with the philosophy of the Usokae Festival: “turning bad luck into good.” This is a place where faith is not just about blind luck, but about the deity providing a gentle push to those striving to forge their own destiny.
Walking through the streets of Iizaka, you will often see weathered, vintage bullfinches perched in ryokan (traditional inn) lobbies or at the entrances of local shops. This is proof that the ritual is more than just a fleeting event; it is a part of daily life, passed down through generations. The bustle of the hot spring town and the serene air of the shrine blend together, making the Usokae Festival an indispensable piece of the cultural identity of Fukushima.
Conclusion
The Usokae Festival is a quintessential symbol of winter in Iizaka, Fukushima. As we have explored, this ritual is far more than a mere repetition of an ancient tradition. It embodies a “discipline of the heart”—a way of processing and overcoming unpredictable hardships and challenges that the Japanese people have cultivated over centuries.
In our modern lives, we are constantly bombarded with information, often finding ourselves overwhelmed by our own words or the environments around us. We all face unexpected failures and strokes of ill fortune. Rather than carrying these burdens alone and letting them cloud our spirits, this ritual allows us to stand before the deity and hit “reset,” declaring, “Let’s treat this as a lie and start anew.” This ceremony of “switching gears” is perhaps exactly the kind of wisdom we need in today’s high-stress society.
When you hold a wooden bullfinch in your hand and look into its calm, steady eyes, you may find yourself regaining a sense of composure. Transforming last year’s misfortune into a “lie” and this year’s luck into “truth” is a positive act. This is not a “lie” meant to deceive others; it is a form of prayer—a commitment to creating a better future for oneself.
Takahata Tenmangu has stood as the sole guardian of this tradition in the Tohoku and Hokkaido regions. Its serene grounds and the comforting warmth of Iizaka Onsen continue to welcome visitors with open arms. If you are feeling a heavy weight on your heart, or if you are seeking the courage to take on a new challenge, I invite you to visit Iizaka this winter.
A small bullfinch is waiting to turn your sorrows into a “lie” and bring forth a year of brilliant “truth.” It is my sincere hope that the light of this warm ritual, glowing amidst the harsh Fukushima cold, will never fade and will continue to bring hope to the hearts of many for generations to come.
Career advancement
2026年1月15日。
January 15th, 2026.
今日は、福島市飯坂町で15日から18日まで行われる「うそ替え祭」についてお伝えしたいと思います。
Today, I’d like to tell you about the Usokae Festival, which will be held from the 15th to the 18th in Iizaka-town, Fukushima City.
突然ですが、昨年の厄災をすべて嘘に変えてしまうような神事があるとしたら、興味ありませんか？
This may be a bit sudden, but wouldn’t you be interested in a religious ritual that could turn all of the misfortunes of the past year into lies?
この神事は菅原道真公を祀る神社で行われ、東北や北海道では、福島市飯坂町の西根神社境内にある高幡天満宮でのみ行われています。
This ritual is held at shrines dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, and in Tohoku and Hokkaido it is only held at Takahata Tenmangu Shrine, located within the grounds of Nishine Shrine in Iizaka-town, Fukushima City.
これは、かつて参拝者を襲った蜂の大群を鷽鳥が食べ、人々を救ったという伝説に由来しています。
The ritual comes from a legend that once told of a bush warbler that saved worshippers by eating a swarm of bees that had attacked them.
想像してみてください。
Imagine this:
木彫りの鷽鳥を手にした瞬間、病気や災難、不幸は「嘘」となり、未来は静かに「幸運」へと変わっていくことを。
The moment you hold a wooden carved bush warbler in your hand, illness, disaster, and misfortune will become “lies,” and the future will quietly transform into “good fortune.”
「鷽」という鳥と「嘘」という言葉。
The bird “bush warbler” and the word “lie”.
この2つの言葉が同じ発音であることから、「うそ替え祭」には祈りとユーモア、そして再生への願いが込められています。
In Japanese, these two words are pronounced the same, “Uso”, so the Usokae Festival is a time of prayer, humor, and rebirth.
うそ替え祭は、冬の飯坂温泉と共に西根神社に受け継がれてきた特別な神事です。
The Usokae Festival is a special religious ceremony that has been passed down at Nishine Shrine along with the winter Iizaka hot spring.
自分らしいスローライフをお楽しみください。
Enjoy your own slow life.
朝食に感謝。
Thanks for the breakfast.
応援と評価、宜しくお願い致します。
Thank you for your support and ratings.
